Stocking the pond with the right planting from the start makes a noticeable difference to how quickly it settles. A good place to begin is a considered selection of pond plants suited to the pond's size and depth.

For gardeners wanting an alternative to chemical sprays, a soil-applied option is worth considering as a first step, and a good starting point is a range of slug nematodes for gardens suited to the pest in question.

Native hedging is a strong starting point. Hawthorn and holly, for example, provide dense shelter and nesting sites through spring and summer, then carry berries into autumn and winter when other food is scarce. Nectar-rich perennials planted alongside give pollinators a working food source through the growing season rather than a single short burst.

Food choice should shift with the seasons. High-fat foods such as fat balls and suet blocks suit the colder months, when birds need extra energy to maintain body heat. During the breeding season, softer foods and mealworms are more useful, since adult birds feed these to chicks that cannot yet manage tougher foods. Sunflower hearts work well year round and avoid the mess of husks left by whole sunflower seeds.

Whole peanuts should be avoided if fledglings are likely to be fed them directly, as they present a choking risk; a mesh feeder that breaks nuts into smaller pieces is the safer option. Hygiene is just as important as food choice: cleaning bird feeders regularly and moving their position from time to time helps reduce the build-up of bacteria that can spread between visiting birds.

Design has a big influence on how well a pond gets used. A shallow, gently sloping edge, sometimes called a beach area, lets amphibians and insects get in and out easily, and gives small mammals that fall in an escape route rather than a hazard. Planting in distinct zones, marginal plants at the shallow edge, floating plants across the surface, and oxygenating plants below, gives different creatures the cover and conditions they need.